Taj Falaknuma Palace - Hyderabad 6.04

Falaknuma, Engine Bowli
Hyderabad, 500053
India
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Built by the Nawab Viqar-Ul-Umra, the palace eventually became the seat of the Nizams’ power. As you spiral your way up to the entrance it’s hard not to feel that you are ascending to a far more cheerful version of Asgard. There is no Frigg moping through these halls, rather the sound of birds and the gentle caress of the wind through the foliage invites you into the womb of royalty.

It’s easy to see why the Falaknuma took 10 years to build; shaped like a scorpion its pincers rise upward and outwards, its body snakes behind it leading to a lashing tail, and the most extravagant sting you’ll ever have the pleasure to see. The palace also took 22 years to decorate. The interiors are a labour of love, with every nook thought out and every strip of wood (natural or stucco) and slab of marble has a reason for its existence.

There is nothing noveau-riche abut Falaknuma. There’s nary a hint of the rabid opulence of Middle Eastern palaces where black granite and garish gold snap at you for attention. It does not desire your appreciation as much as it courts it. A Russian oligarch would hate it, and that’s what makes it so beautiful. Each room comes with its own slice of history and tales so wondrous, they border on apocryphal. From the ladies’ room with its deliciously scandalous gossip chair, and the dining room with its table that seats 101, every space reverberates with the footfalls of history, to the ballroom where one can almost hear the strains of a Viennese Waltz playing to a crowd of dignitaries as they sashay across the floor, all diamonds and dreams, Falaknuma delights. But don’t for one second think that the palace is only for history buffs or those with a voyeuristic penchant for seeing how the other half live.

With 60 rooms, the Falaknuma Palace is also a hotel with its place firmly entrenched in the hospitality stratosphere. The rooms — from the grandeur of the Grand Presidential Suite to the Royal Suites — are built to conjure memories of life at the court of the Nizam. Have they been upgraded? Definitely. Do they still retain the old world charm? Certainly. The two restaurants, Adaa (Indian) and Celeste (world cuisine), serve up feasts that fit the setting. Whether it’s traditional Hyderabadi cuisine or something catering to a lightly more Westernised palate, it’s all available. High Tea at the Gol Bungalow overlooking the city is not to be missed. And once you’re done stacking up on sandwiches, scones and petit fours, sit back order a cocktail and watch the sun set over the city to the sound of qawalis. There are few things more enchanting in life than being a part of history, or at least spending time in its sphere. The Taj Falaknuma Palace offers you that opportunity. Whether it’s for a meal, weekend break, or a longer stay, Hyderabad may not have anything better to offer. Don’t take our word for it.

There are few stars in the sky these days, but from Falaknuma, when you look out over the city lights, you realise that they’re all at your feet. The credit for much of what Falaknuma is today should go to Princess Esra who supervised the resurrection of this icon. And as she walks through the grounds in the shadow of its magnificence one wonders if there are not a few others who walk at her side; those for whom the palace was home, and those who will be eternally grateful that its legacy has been reborn with such elegance. And if they do, they must be smiling. That’s what Falaknuma does.

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